Greenville Inn

Nestled deep in Greenville is the Greenville Inn (appropriately named). The exterior screams Rhode Island dining classic with a sign that advertises 'Family Style Chicken' and Italain-American cusine. That's not a bad thing to diners in the Ocean State, but does the exterior indicate a good place to eat?

Inside, the atmosphere changes from carriage house to classic New England with exposed beams and soft light. The busy staff were quick to seat us, and placed us to a room with a nice big fireplace. Unfortunately, the fireplace was not lit. Otherwise, the room felt very cozy.

We ordered 5 dishes. All are classic Italian dishes popular in Rhode Island. The first, our appetizer, fried Calamari served with banana peppers (we asked them to omit then, more below). Then we each ordered a pasta dish. I ordered the Pasta Fagioli with the Pasta Aglio Olio. My wife ordered J. Bell's Tomato Sauce with capellini and a side salad.

The fried Calamari came out quick. The plated looked like a mound of golden rings. Why did we omit the banana peppers? Most times the peppers turn the delicious fried squid soggy. Thankfully every bite of this dish had a perfect crunch. The Calamari itself was tender enough. My wife enjoyed the fact that the plate lacked bodies (though I wondered where the little tentacles went off to?).

Next came the second course. My wife's salad was eh, served with a neutral oil and neon-red vinegar. It was standard salad with nothing to write home about. I noticed a trend with the oil presented with the salad as to what they us to fry the Calamari.

At the same time I enjoyed a small bowl of Pasta Fagioli. It was garlicky, but lacked a full tomato flavor I expect in the dish. The pasta itself was overcooked. It tasted too much like a canned soup you could buy in the supermarket.

Finally, our main courses arrived. I ordered the Pasta Aglio Olio made with linguine. The oil and garlic showed up with some powdered Parmesan cheese aiding some extra flavor and saltiness. I missed something more from this dish. A shaker of red pepper flakes added some heat. I would have loved for the chef to have added some of the black olives from my wife's salad. Otherwise everything tasted great, though there was a bit too much oil in the plate. Again, it was the non-olive oil.


My wife had the J. Bell's Tomato Sauce with capellini (angel hair if you do not speak Italian). She enjoyed every bite. The sauce was bright and the pasta was perfectly cooked. I found the sauce a tad bitter (the same bitterness found in tomato seeds), but my wife did not taste it. I am curious to how the meatballs and sausage would taste with the red sauce.


Overall, this was a great Italian-American meal. I felt like I was eating Rhode Island food in a Rhode Island restaurant. Despite a few minor missteps, I felt comfortable and left satisfied without a big hit in the wallet. If you're in Greenville and need a nice meal, I can endorse stopping at the local Inn.

The Greenville Inn has a website and this is the Greenville Inn's Facebook fan page.

Rating: B+

La Masseria Ristorante

La Masseria, the spawn of a New York City restaurant with the same name, stands out on scenic Route 1 in East Greenwich. The wonderful spring blossoms and warm weather enhanced the approach to this new restaurant. Its concept is simple; rustic Italian cuisine served in a dinning room that resembles a farm house. All food would be inspired mainly from the Puglia region, though bits of Capri and Naples worked their way into the menu. The concept fits well with Rhode Island's rustic past and strong Italian influence. Designer Libby Langdon designed the interior with very nice results, though a pretty restaurant does not often make a good restaurant.



Me and my wife ate upstairs as part of a media luncheon that offered a lengthy tasting menu. The owners, Peppe and Enzo, introduced themselves. They detailed how their childhood in Capri influenced the restaurant. They introduced Chef Pino Coladonato and Manager Monopoli. They are the two in charge of the Rhode Island restaurant while the owners themselves would float between thee New York and Rhode Island locations. They made a special note that the staff had trained in the New York restaurant and transplanted to East Greenwich. Did the transplantation work?

Our meal started with a two types of rustic bread with olive oil, grissini (house made thin bread sticks) and a glass of lemony prosecco. Manager Monopoli served as our sommelier for the meal, noting he would accompany every dish with an appropriate wine. The prosecco fit the day perfectly with a light taste. The grissini tasted a tad dry, but were very flavorful. We also enjoyed a classic white italian bread and a grainy wheat bread. Alongside side the bread came a small dish of olive oil sporting what looked like capers, though we were corrected that it was infused with lentils and garlic. The mixture went well with the hardy crust and tender miche of both breads.

Our waiters then brought out the appetizer courses. The first course featured Bruschetta (small crostini topped with black truffles and fontina cheese), Fritto misto del Mare (a small selection of fried seafood), and I Cucuzielli Fritti alla Pino (fried zuchini strings). Overall, the presentation was nice but seemed a bit thrown together. The chef placed the fritto misto upon a slightly wilted red cabbage cup that took away some of the fritto misto's crispiness. The kitchen also placed a lemon-half alongside the trio. The lemon felt wildly out of place. The food, however, was delicious. Originally, we were told our bruschetta would have ripe tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. The black truffle and fontina toppings surprised us (and it felt a bit like they were trying to buy us off), though it was delicious. The Fritto misto featured wonderfully sweet scallops and shrimp, though my calamari tasted a tad old and the texture was tougher than I am used to. The zuchini strings stole the show for me, despite being the least flashy of the trio. My wife preffered the truffle and fontina crostini, which was incredibly delicious. The delicate tempura crisped the strings perfectly, indicating why this was one of the owner's favorite dishes. We enjoyed the Bortoluzzi Pinot Grigio paired with the meal, noting it fit the summery selection.

Our next appetizer course featured another house speciality, the Mozzarella farcita. This house-made cheese included a daily selection of ingredients stuffed within the delicate presentation. Our stuffing included marinated eggplant, roasted red peppers, and tender asparagus. A wonderful stainless steel-aged Puglia chardonnay paired wonderfully with this dish, and the trio of vegetables went wonderfully with the fresh cheese. Plating also improved with the stuffed cheese set upon a large coin of marinated eggplant.

The final appetizer course, Terra mare del Tavoliere (grilled octopus and cuttlefish served atop broccoli rabe and a fava bean puree) paired with Feudi di San Gregorio Falanaghina. The wine was not stand-out with the dish, but the dish itself should grace every diner's table. The kitchen perfectly grilled the cephalopods tasted fantastic. Each were wonderfully marinated in separate concoctions that highlighted the unique tastes. I enjoyed the Octopus tentacles while my wife enjoyed the cuttlefish. Both proteins tasted wonderful dipped into the puree.

The dinner courses started with the restaurant's signature Polpette di Manzo della Masseria (long Italian title for house-made meatballs). Chef Pino prepares a fresh bath daily ground from tender rib eye beef, resulting in a soft and tasty meatball. The delicate tomato sauce and fresh greens served alongside the meatball enhanced its flavor, which all went together with glass of Corvina-Rondinella wine made from Palazzo della Torre. The Palazzo della Torre was a table favorite, and it paired magnificently with the meatball. The Polpette di Manzo stands out as a simple dish that showed true proficiency and potential.

A course of gnocchi followed the meatball. Gnocchi can be fickle. I've been to many restaurants with disappointing servings of the delicate potato dumplings. My wife also eagerly anticipated the meal given my gnocchi is her favorite dish. La Masseria's serving did not disappoint. The dumplings melted in the mouth with a wonderful pink tomato-basil sauce. My only complaint were the small beads of mozzarella, I prefer nice big pieces with the gnocchi, but it's a small gripe. The wine, a Vietti Dolcetta D'Alba, paired with this course.

Next came another house speciality, the Penne Masseria. I was a bit disappointed with again having another tomato-basil sauce (present in the previous 2 dishes), though this one featured a nice smokey combination of pancetta and smoked mozzarella. The ingredients produced a very rich plate of pasta that was wonderfully seasoned. Manager Monopoli paired this dish with a lovely primitivo that he chilled in a Neapolitan style. It itself was a delicious summer wine, but I felt it did not pair with the richness of the dish.

A nice Granotto al Frutti di Mare e Fagioli followed the pair of pasta dishes. Chef Pino prepared the grain like a risoto with a nice assortment of shrimp, clams, and calamari. Unfortunately, the problems with the calamari earlier (tough) continued to this dish. The shrimp and clams also tasted a bit overcooked, though the grains were al dente. The dish was supposed to also have white beans, though I only found one in my dish. A lovely Nero d'Avola enhanced an otherwise lackluster dish.

Veal Milanese came out as the final entree course. Chef Pino coated the veal, tender-white and pounded thin, with crushed grissini. The coating worked producing a not-so-greasy milanese. A small salad of marinated tomatoes and greens accented the cutlet's seasoning. Manager Monopoli supplied a Barbera D'Asti to pair with the veal to compliment the protein. Together, the dish and wine produced a nice meal.

After all this food, how could we eat dessert? When the waiters served coffee and two wonderful slices of cake we could not say no. First, we tried the Torta di Ricotta. This smooth ricotta cheese cake would embarrass any other competitors. The wonderful flavor mixed with a fantastic texture. My wife preferred the second slice; the Torta di Mamma Paola. The soft and flour-less chocolate almond cake stood up well to the more angelic cheese cake. Almond slivers added a nice texture to the cake. Together they surrounded a nice pile of whipped cream topped with a raspberry and delicious chocolate syrup. A digestif of Muscat'asti finished a lovely meal.

Chef Pino proved the concept carried from New York to East Greenwich. The tasting menu represented the cuisine very well. I felt like I missed nothing and experience the Chef's goal. A few minor mis-steps did not destroy my experience, and my partner enjoyed her meal just as much. La Masseria has a full website for both locations.

Rating: A

Narragansett Grill

Wandering around Narragansett's Ocean drive brought me and my wife to an interesting restaurant near the Judith Point Lighthouse. The parking lot filled, we both decided this would be a great place for a ocean-side dinner on a lovely March late-afternoon. We pulled in with many cars and entered a small, beach themed dinning room. We were then confronted by an open house featuring a wonderful selection of the new menu. As it turned out, the Narragansett Grill hadn't even opened yet. The owner welcomed us in and offered us food and wine. Though the restaurant presented the food 'buffet' style (more akin to Brazilian Steak House, with Waitresses carrying plates around), I will review the food occurring to courses similar to their menu.

Our first course included raw oysters and clams (fresh from the ocean according to the waitress) along with some large shrimp (Gulf shrimp). The seafood collection tasted wonderful, though the ordinary shrimp would have been better grilled. Next came bread batons, fried bread sticks stuffed with mozzarella cheese. My wife loved these, noting they were better than some fried cheese offered as 'gourmet' cuisine. Next came Block Island calamari, wonderfully fried and served with banana peppers and black olives. Thankfully they served both the rings and the bottoms with tentacles, and without a sauce to mar the taste. We both enjoyed the Grill's calamari. Finally, the waitress brought over bacon-wrapped scallops topped with a Sambuca-cream sauce. The light amount of sauce enhanced the fresh scallops and salty bacon, rather than destroying the flavor.

Our next course started with a lovely Rhode Island clam chowder (clear chowder with a small amount of cream). It was nicely filled with clams and celery, though the broth tasted too much like liquefied potatoes and it drowned out the clam taste. Their pizza followed, featuring a nice bready crust with fresh toppings. Small meatballs followed, featuring meaty flavor without the grease. Both were served with a nice marinara which is often ignored by some restaurants.

The final course started with a seared Blue Fin Tuna. The outside tasted like it had been marinated in green tea, an interesting departure from the over-used (and not very tasty) saturation of Tuna in sesame seeds. Like the prior seafood served, the Tuna tasted wonderful and its unique flavor interested us both. Our waitress also brought over braised beef shoulder with sauteed onions and mushrooms. The steak was wonderfully tender and nicely flavored with garlic. The final two dishes weren't on the 'final menu', though based on our reaction and the reactions of our fellow diners, I anticipate they will be.

We enjoyed our meal both because of the lovely spring day by the ocean and the excellent cuisine served to us. This new restaurant has great potential, once the restaurant establishes itself by being open for longer than a brief pre-opening open house. Given Summer's quick approach, I will become a seasonal patron at the very least! I say this is well worth the drive to the ocean. So far, the Narragansett Grill only has a facebook page, but I anticipate them opening a full website soon.

Rating: B+

Temple

The Temple restaurant in Downtown Providence’s Renaissance Hotel developed a new menu for Spring. Ditching its former menu, Chefs David Cardell (executive chef) and Joyce Goldstein (culinary consultant) shaped the new menu towards Mediterranean flavors, advertising tastes from all 22 countries bordering the ancient sea. The restaurant extended this menu first to the media, of which I was present. The luncheon presented matched the restaurant’s mystical interior (Masonic themes inspire a feeling of secret societies) alongside a new interior inspiring of Roman and Venetian trade routes.



Our opening experience involved a nice descent down a Masonic staircase. The bar featured copper platting and candle-light illumination and a nice selection of cocktails.

Temple’s cocktails occupied a large part of their new menu. Right from the onset, bartenders served up a trio of delicious cocktails. Me and my wife least enjoyed Temple’s ‘Turkish Coffee’ cocktail. This is not to say it was not delicious, but compared to the other two the drink was a bit underdeveloped. My wife enjoyed the Fleur de Marseille. It possessed St Germain elderberry flower liqueur and a lavender simple syrup mixed with sparkling wine and a rose-flavored lollipop. The Mediterranean Spritzer became my favorite (which paired well with the flat-breads). The sun-dried tomato and basil left in the glass complimented the similarly flavored simple syrup and citron vodka to make a savory accent.

A nice pair of flatbread appetizers complimented the drinks. A Margherita flatbread reminded me of the classic brick-oven pizza, though then similarly textured tomatoes and mozzarella really worked. The tastier Roasted Cremini Mushroom flatbread also boasted tasty arugula, spicy Gorgonzola and delicate mozzarella cheese. Both were nice bar appetizers and inspired greater appetite.



After being seated in the main dinning room, the staff served up thee Temple Mezze Platter. The appetizer served a trio of sauces; tzatziki, baba ghanoush, and hummus. All three had strong middle-eastern flavors and had nice flavor profiles to place upon a rather plain pita bread (especially after the nicely toasted flatbread served at the bar). A small pile of Moroccan-spiced carrots felt plopped on and did not add much, but were delicious. The Spanakopita accompanying the dish (spinach and cheese in puff-pastry) delivered a mild flavor easily accepted by all palates. Unfortunately, the Dolmas became the disappointment of the platter. Red Currants left a sweet taste alongside undercooked jasmine rice. Very bad when proper dolmades are one of my favorite dishes. The platter felt somewhat connected but needed perhaps some more thought to tie everything together. The appetizer felt more like a sampler rather than a thoughtful selection.

The waiters served our second course; the Gratin of Shrimp and aged Feta. A nice tomato and herb sauce smothering the lemon-sized shrimp filled a hot crock. Olive Oil grilled crostini accompanied the dish. The grilled shrimp complimented the grilled bread, though my shrimp were a tad undercooked. The tomato sauce itself was also a bit over seasoned. These fundamental mistakes marred a potentially delicious appetizer.

A very Rhode Island dish followed the shrimp. Port Judith Calamari accompanied fried zucchini and lemon wheels and lemon aioli. Another dinner commented on the greasiness of the calamari, indicating improper oil and/or cook time. The lemon and zucchini produced wonderful accents for the local dish.

Chefs Cardell and Goldstein then fielded questions after the early courses while the kitchen prepared our main dishes. Chef Cardell spoke of his eagerness to expose Providence to Mediterranean cuisine while exploiting New England’s seafood connection. Both promised that the restaurant would take steps to include local producers in their pantry selections.

Our wine selection throughout the meal included a nice Churchill Duoro (2007 vintage) and some Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon Blanc (2008 vintage). Neither paired well with a specific plate but presented some pleasant notes with the entire tasting. Despite the large wine list, a sommelier would help patrons decide which wines to enjoy with each meal.

Our main courses began with a misnamed Penne al Forno Alla Bolognese. Bolognese harkens to a thick meat-sauce flavored with tomatoes, yet this dish felt more like baked ziti or American Chop Suey (a local dish). The meat, while nicely caramelized and seasoned, felt dwarfed by too much cheese. A nice dish with a bad name, perhaps ‘Mediterranean Macaroni and Cheese’ would be a better name.

The servers presented the next course; a delicious plate of Spaghetti alla Puttanesca. The spaghetti was perfectly al dente, and the sauce was wonderfully flavored. A tad boring if served by itself, the dish needed some protein to balance it out as an entree.

A pair of Tagines served as our final course. A nice vegetable Tagine (and both me and my wife’s favorite) featured perfectly cooked carrots, squash, and chick peas along side a fluffy and savory couscous. Some minor hints of lemon could have been pushed out more for an otherwise delicious vegetarian meal. The line-caught Cod Tagine included similar vegetables and flavors. The fish, while somewhat mushy, had a nice mellow flavor that accompanied the vegetables and couscous. A big problem with their Tagines were the fact that they felt false. While served in the traditional conical dish, the entire entree felt like it had been cooked separately and placed within the pot for only aesthetic purposes.

Finally, their desert course finished a nice meal. They first offered a cup of coffee (the Seattle’s best felt a tad disappointing after being served a ‘Turkish Coffee’ cocktail) alongside their Buttermilk Panna Cotta. They topped the desert with delicate honey and fresh strawberries, though I look forward to Spring and Summer when the dish could feature native berries and honey. The Limonstillo stole the desert with a delicate lemon and saffron flavor served above crushed ice. Del’s Lemonade remains a Rhode Island Summer Favorite, the digestif was the adult’s version and had that Mediterranean bias Temple’s creators sought. The drink was flawless in flavor. A Meyer lemon version would be a nice summer version for me to enjoy (hint hint).

Temple’s tasting offered a fraction of their menu. The idea of a Mediterranean menu is ambitious since many of the cultures do not share many common elements. Chef Cardell put together a nice menu of flavors that fit together better than expected. Many of the missteps can be explained as opening jitters common in new menus. The above-mentioned errors are hopefully just because of the new cuisine, because the new menu gives Temple and unique menu in a classic local. Anything one eats in a former Masonic temple the food enjoyed better elicit memories of crusades, pilgrimages, and decadence. Temple has a full website. The restaurant opens on March 15, a bad day if you're Julius Caesar but a good a day if you want to try something new.



Rating: B+

North End Treats

Caution, this review only covers the desert selections from North End Treats.

Famous for offering authentic North End fare outside of Boston, North End Treats holds to a prestigious tradition. It's located right off of the Massachusetts Turnpike, an unassuming location with wonderful access for all of New England. Does the ugly duckling have a heart of gold?

Yes. The deserts were perfect. We first tried their canolis, stuffed with a less-than-traditional chocolate filling. Everything about it was perfect, golden pasty, perfectly sugared, and a filling that made me believe in love again. I would not turn down a box of these delights.

Next, we tried their chocolate cupcake. The ganache was a bit sugary, however the cake itself held a wonderfully deep cocoa-flavor. It created a nice balance when consumed together. The nonpareils on top just made for a fun eating experience.

Finally, we tried their medium Whoopie pie. We were served something the size of a cheeseburger. The cake, similar to that in the cupcake, blended perfectly with the fresh whipped cream. The whipped cream, by itself, was a tad sweet. Combined with the cake, the Whoopie pie put all others to shame.

North End Treats has a full bakery and a deli with a brick oven pizzeria. They have a full website.



Rating: A

Wild Fire

In the western reaches of Mineral Spring Avenue in North Providence sits a gourmet Italian bistro. Wild Fire serves fresh wood-oven pizza, pastas, and they have a full bar. The restaurant celebrates several specials to entice quicker visits. Every Sunday they offer an Italian Chicken dinner. Every Monday, it's all-you-can-eat pasta. Every Tuesday all large Pizzas are half-off. The weekdays have happy-hour specials from 4pm to 6pm featuring a cheap menu.

Inside, Wild Fire features dark woods and impressive lighting. The dim surroundings do not betray uncleanliness. The interior possessed a pleasant atmosphere. A pleasant hostess greeted us and sat us at a lovely table. We were quickly served with excellent service and were presented a wonderful meal.

The best indicator of pizza are the rolls served before the meal. Wild Fire served wood-fire baked rolls with lovely garlic-infused olive oil alongside dried pepper flakes and freshly grated parmigiana regiano cheese. This in itself provided a wonderful start for an early afternoon pizza.

A wonderfully cooked pizza emerged from the kitchen. The waitress suggested a wonderful chianti to complient the pizza. The 'Genoa' featured fresh sauce and buffalo mozzerela cheese topped with a fresh basil chiffonade, freshly cut Genoa salami, and shredded asiago cheese. Its flavors complimented everything wonderfully producing a pizza that cannot easily be topped. Everyone worked perfectly. Wild Fire is the perfect proof of why pizza should be cooked above fire.

We enjoyed a wonderful meal. Me and my wife look forward to returning for a more intense meal. Wildfire has a full website complete with menus.



Rating: A

Trattoria Romana Express

Settled across the street from the Lincoln mall sits the Trattoria Romana. This is not a review of the main restaurant, but the 'express' cafe next door. These have become popular with restaurants. They offer the same quality of food offered cheaper and quicker.

Me and my wife decided to eat here. We sat down at the small tables adjacent to the large deli case. This case was filled with pastries, Italian foods, and deli meats. The walls were covered with jars and bottles of various foods, giving the atmosphere of a true deli, even though this was more of a quick-eat cafe. They offer everything from a simple coffee to gourmet pastries and breakfast sandwiches.

The plate we ordered was nice meal. We ordered a simple cheese pizza for the meal. It was delicious, but lacking. The crust was perfect. The sauce, amazing. Our only problem was the cheese. It tasted more like microwave oven pizza cheese rather than real mozzarella. We looked at the menu again, and while the pepperoni offer 'authentic buffalo mozzarella', the cheese only listed 'shredded mozzarella cheese'. The cheeses tasted fine, but then they didn't taste good enough. I would have prefered the goey and stringy authentic mozzarella to a bagged cheese which left the pizza a little greasy. Next time we go, we're definately ordering a pepperoni pizza sans the little disks.

Trattoria Romana Express is located accross the street from the Lincoln RI. There is the main restaurant, but this reviewed the cafe. Both cater and offer a wide selection of food. http://www.trattoriaexpress.com/




Rating: B

Caserta Pizzeria

If you want Pizza, go to Federal Hill and seek out Acorn Street, and go to Caserta Pizzeria. The sauce is amazing, their dough is perfectly cooked, and the toppings are a wonderful compliment and don't overpower the other ingredients. Too many places either put too much cheese or sauce, or it's just a delivery vehicle for 10 pounds of meat. Caserta Pizza focuses on the zen of Pizza, balancing everything so it tastes like a pizza should.

The restaurant is also known for their Wimpy Skimpy, a spinach pie stuffed with canned spinach, pepperoni, olives, and cheese. Why canned spinach over fresh baby spinach? It just tastes better and honestly sometimes you need a little canned spinach in a world filled with baby greens. The dough on the Wimpy Skimpy seems different than the other pizza dough, it comes out with a more french consistency, being airy and buttery.

The exterior and interior may turn some connoisseurs off, but no authentic brick-oven pizza joint can ever replicate the texture and taste that Caserta Pizzeria delivers. It's located off Atwells Avenue on Federal Hill in Providence, Rhode Island. They only take cash but have an ATM on site.

http://casertapizza.com/

Rating: A+

Twin Oaks Restaurant

Hidden away in Cranston, Rhode Island is a true culinary gem. When you approach the parking lot you can appreciate the food you're about to eat by the sheer volume of cars. Inside you're confronted with an ordinary looking lobby, but don't be fooled. What awaits is perhaps the best food in Rhode Island.

It takes a truly good recipe to make Meat Loaf desirable, and Twin Oaks does it. There is a reason they sell out early on the special days they serve it (Tuesdays and Saturdays, mark a calender). If you want thanksgiving, go with their full turkey dinner, you'll want to undo your pants and watch some football afterwards. Their steaks are perfect and the pasta dishes are to die for.

There's really nothing bad about Twin Oaks, except maybe the wait. They have over 4 dinning rooms yet still they fill up to an hour+ wait. Here's a secret, find a spot at the bar and order there. Same food, easier seating. If you do manage to get a seat, ask for a waterfront view for a breathtaking meal.

http://www.twinoaksrest.com/

Rating: A